written by tom / 21.11.2016 07:29

Everest base camp trek: Day 4-5, Lamjura La to Junbesi: Sick day

We found an old school building, what is converted to teahouse. It is huge, with large rooms and wide hallways.

We woke up early again, for a long day or trekking. I’m feeling kind of weak and crappy, but nothing too serious. The room is cold, so very cold, but at least the weather is clear and we have an amazing view right from our window. The valley and first snow covered tops are visible in the distance. Several airplanes fly trough the valley – heading to Lukla. You can take very expensive flight to Lukla, making the trek about 5-6 days shorter. If possible, dont, you will miss out the awesome cultural experience and genuine local villages!

We start our day with small ascent towards the pass. Beautiful views both sides of the pass. From there on, it is relatively easy, but slippery way down (again from yesterdays rain). We are slowly getting used to our heavy backpacks, even my shoulders are not so bad anymore.

Scenery is almost as nice as the other side of mountain, with mossy and quiet forest. There is absolutely nobody around. Only one tiny hut with dozens of yaks, we come by. It seems like abandoned, but there is smoke coming out the chimney. We dont stop to look around, because again, it is starting to drizzle.

Stormes have passe by and there are several huge, ancient trees, fallen on the road. This means climbing pass them on extremely muddy yak poop track. Roads there are poorly maintained, as it is not the main trekking route after flights to Lukla where started.

Everybody else is feeling fine, but I’m feeling weaker and weaker by every passing hour. And yes, the is starting to pour heavier and heavier, making it harder and harder to go.

Forest gives up and brakes into yet another valley, which gives us some nice views in the rainy day. But there is still no sight of the village we are heading. As the rain got extremely heavy, we are hoping that the village is behind next corner, and so it goes for several corners. Finally we do reach Junbesi at about lunch time. But its still raining hard, very wet and miserable, so we decided to look for a bed to sleep in. I’m feeling very weak and couldn’t imagine moving on today.

We found an old school building, what is converted to teahouse. It is huge, with large rooms and wide hallways. But it is cheap and the food we ate for lunch was amazing – Awesome change compared to the things we ate yesterday.

After the lunch my condition worsens. I take several paracetamols and go to sleep. I go through high fever (probably) and massive sweating. I sleep until evening, skip the lunch and continue sleeping until morning. In my mind I already think through the options, if my condition wont get better. How to I get help, where do I go? Should I walk back out? My mind goes crazy, because I truly feel like this is the end.

I don’t know, what it was, but next day I felt a lot better, still a bit weak, but like a human. I stuffed myself with the amazing food and most of the day we just sat in the bed – Reading books, talking and sleeping. Even Veroncia and Pavel felt a bit ill, although not that bad as me. We can only assume what was the cause, but after a rest day and about million hours of sleep, almost miraculously, we all got better. So our adventure continues on Day 6 🙂

Stats for the day:

100% cloudy and 60% rainy
5 hours of walking
About 6.5km of map distance
15.5km equivalent flat distance *
100m of ascents
1000m of descents
Epic forests and first very high altitude of the trek

Total stats

30 hours of walking
About 41.5km of map distance
87.5km equivalent flat distance *
3190m of ascents
2505m of descents

* Using Naismith’s rule, I calulated the actual distance of the trak, taking into consideration the elevation gain.